Improvement in paper collars



E. EfMAcK.

PAPER-COLLAR.

No. 191,354. Patented May 29,1877.

N.PETERS. FHOT0 UYMO8RAPNER. WASHINGTON, D C.

UNITED STATES ED ELISHA MACK, OF ALBANY, NEW YCRK.

IMPROVEMENT IN PAPER COLLARS.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent N0. 19 Q ,354, dated May29, 1877 application filed April 27, 1877.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, ED ELISHA MACK, of thecity and county of Albany, State of New York, have invented certainImprovements in Collars, which improvements are fully set forth in thefollowing specification and accompanying drawings, in which Figures 1 to3, inclusive, represent collars made with my improvements, viewed fromtheir inner sides. Figs. 4 and 5 represent collars made with myimprovements viewed from their outer sides. Fig. 6 is a cross-sectionalview of a collar having the top marginal flap folded on the inner side,and taken at lines No. 1 in Figs. 1, 2, and 3; and Fig. 7 is acrosssectional view of a collar having the top marginal flap folded onthe outer side, and taken at lines No. 2 in Figs. 4 and 5.

The objects of my invention are to furnish a standing collar made ofpaper, or paper faced with linen, with a means by which the upper marginedge of the collar will be made smooth to the feel of the neck, andretain the intended curvature of the same without liability of kinkingor short bending, while the edge itself will be prevented from beingfrayed out when worn, and the collar itself be made to flare outwardfrom the neck of the wearer, with the corners turned outward, withoutliability of their breaking or tearing at the upper margin edge.

In the drawings, A represents the body of the collar proper. B is theband, made continuous with the body A, without seam or fold. a a and aare button-holes made in the said band for securing the collar to .theshirt-band. The said button-holes are arranged in relation to each otheron a curved line, m, which curved line will be hereinafter more fullydescribed. Out with the collar, and continuous with the true andfinished margin edge 0 of the same, is the flap 0r folding margin-piece6, (shown by dotted lines in Figs. 1 to 5, inclusive, and by full linesin Figs. 1 to 7 inclusive,) which flap consists of a narrow strip cut inexcess with the collar, with a width of about three eighths of an inch,and extending from end to end of the collar, as shown in Figs. 1, 2, and5, or slightly past the points z 2, as shown in Fig. 3, and may beturned down from the upper margin edge 0 against either the inner orouter side surface, as shown in Figs. 6 and 7.

In the practice of this invention. to accomplish the results intended tobe secured, I, in

all cases, fold the flap e on. a curved creased line greater than thecurve-line on which the button-holes a a and a are made, as about fourto one-that is to say, the curve on which theflap e is to be creased andfolded from the top margin line 0 in a fourteen-inch collar should befrom a radia of about one hundred and twenty-eight inches, while thecurved line 00, on which the button-holes are made, should be about froma radia of thirty-two inches. In a longer collar the said two curvesshould be proportionally greater, and in a shorter collar proportionallyless. The advantageous results secured by turning the flap or foldingmargin-piece on the curve described, and the button-holes setting on thecurved line as, as described, are these: the margin folding flap will,when the collar is secured to the neck-band of the shirt, lie closeagainst the surface of the collar it is folded on, and with a degree ofpressure so as to stiffen the margin edge 0 against receiving shortbends or kinks, and at the same time flare the collar outward in alldirections; or, in other words, set the upper margin edge off from theneck of the wearer, and thereby prevent it from chafing the neck.

When the flap e is folded down from the margin edge 0 on the inner sidesurface, the fold should be made on a curved line (above described)running in a direction in opposition to the curved line as, on which thebutton-holes are made, as shown in Figs. 1, 2, and 3, while when theflap is turned against. the outer side surface it should be turned onthe same described curve running in the same direction as the curve as,as shown in Figs. 4 and 5. In either case the same advantageous resultswill be secured, though the appearance of the collar to the eye will bedifferent.

If desired, the flap e may be made to extend from end to end, andprovided with end flaps d d, shown in Figs. 1. and 5, in which case Iwould so form the said end flaps that their upper ends would have abearing on the ends of the long flap e and hold the same down, andsecure the said end flaps to the surface of the collar by stitching orcement.

In collars having their corners bent outward, as is sometimes the casein linen collars, I bend the corners s of the collar outward from a pointas v on a line as line '0 z. The bend made is to have the form of anobtuse angle at its place of commencement at o, and gradually fall awayas it approaches point z, so as to end in a rounded corner or bend atthe margin edge, while the line of sharp bend commencing at point 17 andrunning to point 2 should in all cases be in such a direction as tostrike a portion of the folded flap 9, even when it is made with theform and extension shown in Figs. 3 and 4.

It may be readily seen, by the improvements in this invention, that thecollar will be made to flare outward at the sides and back, when itissecured by the button-holes to the shirt-band, to such a degree as toprevent the top margin edge a from touching the neck of the wearer,while the said top margin edge will itself be smooth and free from araw-cut form of edge, and not liable to ehafe the neck of the wearer, asheretofore in raw-cut edge collars, and also be stiffened and preservedfrom short bends or kinks, and also, in linen-faced collars, not liableto fray out when worn.

It may also be readily seen that, by the employment of the foldingmargin piece or flap e, the collar is provided with a new means forreceiving any degree of finish that may be selected to be given to thecollar, toincrease its beauty of finish by embossing or other processesfamiliar to the trade, and also that the invention.

the flap e, or the employment of a flap in a corners 8 may be made toturn outward with a graceful form of curve at its margin edge, while atthe same time the corners will not be liable to tear down.

I am aware that flaps folded against the collar have been beforeemployed, but such flaps were different in their oifice, work andfunctions, and were employed with the class of collars known asturn-down collars, and were made to form a folded edge for the turndownor fold portion of the collar, and were used turned up on the inner sideof the fold, and between the same and the band, and not at the topmargin edge of the collars, as in my I, therefore, do not broadly claimcollar.

What I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. An article of manufacture consisting of a standing collar composed ofbody A, band B, and folding margin piece or flap a, with the latterturned down from the upper margin edge 0 of body A, substantially in themanner set forth.

2. An article of manufacture consisting of

